One of the things I’ve been missing most while in pandemic isolation is dining out. I know it’s a small thing, but eating at restaurants is one of the ways I treat myself and stretch my brain learning about food and culture.
There are a lot of foods I can easily make at home. Pizza, pasta, soup — sure. Raw oysters, not so much.
It’s a bit of a challenge to find an abundant variety of raw oysters in Philly right now, although the Oyster House and Italian Market do offer some options. Also, while I’m fine eating alone, oysters are the most fun when shared with friends. So, I got really excited when I discovered that Hama Hama Oysters was offering a Virtual Oyster Happy Hour: a shipment of oysters and a date to meet with special guests to talk bivalves.
Along with four types of oysters (Hama Hama*, Blue Pools, Eld Inlet, Sea Cows) they sent me the requisite shucking knife. The oysters arrived extremely fresh and in good condition. With a little cleaning they were ready to go.
Oysters chilled and accoutrement ready, I fired up Zoom for happy hour. Not only did I enjoy a bunch of oysters and connect with fellow oyster fans, I also learned a lot:
Pacific oysters have a distinct flavor
(I realize some of you already knew that)
I’m most familiar with the Atlantic’s clean, briny oysters. Pacific oysters are more vegetal and have a lot more body than Atlantic oysters. I have to admit it was a bit of a shock to open up the box of oysters, shuck one, and get a mouthful of cool, but not chilled, Pacific oyster with so much body when I was expecting brine. Now I know. I also discovered that chilling an oyster changes its flavor.
There’s a lot more to appreciate about an oyster than just its flavor
Where an oyster is from, its genetics, and how it’s grown affect not only its flavor but also its shell shape and depth. Ordering pre-shucked oysters gave me the opportunity to appreciate each type of oyster’s special beauty and history (as well as the organisms growing on the outside). It’s something I completely overlooked when I ate oysters in restaurants.
Oysters pair well with a lot of beverages
It really comes down to whether you want complementary or contrasting flavors.
- Whiskey – It was recommended to pour a salty whiskey (like Talisker) into the empty shell once you eat the oyster. I haven’t tried it yet. It’s still difficult to get alcohol here in Philly, but it’s definitely on my to-do list.
- Sake – Julie Qiu recommended sake (the inahalfshell blog is super helpful). She said the simplicity of the brewing process is one reason it’s an ideal pairing. Both oysters and sake also have glutamic acid, so they complement each other.
- Oyster Stouts – Apparently they used to be made with whole oysters but are now mostly made with oyster shells. The point is they’re sweet and bitter and stand up to strong sea flavors.
- The Classics – Try wine pairings like minerally Muscadet or Pinot Gris, and light beers like Pilsner and beach lagers. These won’t overpower the oysters.
- Non-alcoholic – There wasn’t a lot of focus on these during happy hour. Sparkling soda was suggested, and I’ve read that lemonade pairs well with seafood in general.
Oyster flavor profiles are complex and personal
There are flavor differences that are generally agreed upon between types of oysters (e.g., Pacifics tend to be sweet and vegetal, with cucumber and melon flavors; Atlantics are briny and savory, less sweet). But from farm to farm, tasting notes get complex. I compared what I experienced to what other people tasted during the happy hour (and used Julie Qiu’s tasting note’s guide), and I wasn’t tasting what other people were tasting. Like wine, an oyster palate takes time to develop and there are individual preferences.
Wait… What is tumbling?
The oyster descriptions I’ve read mention tumbling, and it came up in happy hour. But, what the heck is it and how does it affect oysters?
I hadn’t thought about it before, but most oysters are farmed. There’s a lot of care that goes into what oysters look like by the time they reach your table.
There are a number of ways to grow oysters (seeded on the beach or several ways to grow them in bags). Tumbling means that the oysters are rolled around, sometimes by the tide. This makes them develop deeper cups and stronger shells. Apparently tumbling creates more uniform oysters that are easier to shuck. Freakin’ amazing.
I’m a pretty decent oyster shucker
I spent years trying to shuck an oyster and failing. Not much else is going well right now, so I had this one small goal: successfully shuck a dang oyster. And you know what? I did. I haven’t had many problems. A bit of shell at times, but no major struggle. And now I don’t know why it was so difficult in the past. Perhaps it’s the magical Hama Hama knife I received. Maybe it’s my new focus, since I have little else to do. Who knows. I’m pretty proud. I have quite a few more to practice on, so maybe I’ll get even better.
Let me know if you need some help. I’m here for you.
Now that I realize I know so little about oysters, they’re my latest obsession
I knew that I loved oysters, but I’m sorry to say I took them for granted. This experience showed me how much there is to learn about oyster history, farming, pairing, and eating. I fell asleep late last night reading about them, and as soon as I woke up I had more questions that needed answering. I’m determined to try more varieties, to bake and pickle oysters, and to compare tasting notes with friends, even if it’s from the comfort of my my apartment in Philly. Someday I’ll venture out again and maybe we can share oysters together.
* Hama Hama’s ended up being my favorite! They’re a bit more like what I’m used to: Briny and clean, though they have the added loveliness of Pacific vegetal flavor with sweetness and a mineral finish.
CHAFF 